I don't like chlorine, are there other alternatives? Basically chlorine has two functions in the pool. The first, is to sanitize the water and the second is to oxidize the water. If you understand these two principles, chlorine will become your best friend and you will be able to "fix" broken water quickly. When you smell a strong pungent chlorine odor, or the water has a dull appearance, it is usually chloramines and/or a pH imbalance and the pool actually needs more chlorine. Chloramines are created when the chlorine molecule has become overwhelmed due to large bather loads, excessive organic material or long term neglect of water care. The second function of chlorine is to oxidize or "shock" the pool water periodically. Shocking the pool restores that bright shiny water that we all expect.
One alternative is a copper ion system, where copper is introduced to the water. Copper is a good algaecide but has no oxidizing properties. Copper pools are very easily overwhelmed by bather load thus the water becomes dull (unhealthy) very quickly. Also, you may experience some copper staining. The water in copper pools tend to have a green tint. We do not recommend this system.
Another alternative is ozone. While ozone is a strong oxidizer, the equipment used is generally inadequate to provide effective sanitation for the water volume. Ozone is generally used to subsidize the duties of some other sanitizer.
There are other methods, such as bromine and biguanides, but chlorine, copper and ozone always seem to come up in conversations.
What about a "salt" pool? A salt pool is a chlorine pool. The difference is that you "make" your own chlorine instead of venturing out to the pool store to buy it. There are basically two methods. One method is to add salt (sodium chloride) to the pool and install a "cell" into the filtration system. When the filtration pump passes water through the cell, an electric charge converts the sodium chloride into sodium hyprochlorite, (essentially bleach) and ultimately forms hypochlorous acid in the pool. The other method uses a brine tank solution at the filtration equipment area, where the chlorine is made and introduced to the pool water.
What should I consider for the operating cost of the pool? There are many factors to consider, but generally sanitizing chemicals and costs associated with heating the pool are usually the greatest expense. These costs can be substantially reduced by the use of a cover when the pool is not in use. Chemical costs can also be reduced by properly maintaining all water balance parameters. Chemical costs are also directly related to the bather load. Other costs, are the electricity required to operate the pump or pumps, and any water necessary to periodically "top up" the pool water level.
What should I consider for the cost of ownership? A lot depends on the pool environment and your tolerance. A huge factor is the pool design itself, the pool builder and your pool design requirements. A well constructed pool and pool area will cost less to maintain and require fewer repairs. A high end award winning pool usually requires more maintenance and repairs than a basic pool. Free form shapes tend to be more cumbersome in terms of covering than rectangular shapes. Just like everything that you own, you must maintain it, secure it, and if necessary, insure it.
Should I enclose my pool equipment (pump & filtering equipment)? Not necessarily, you should check with your pool professional, but most pool equipment is suitable for outdoor installations. Although suitable for outdoor installations, it should not be subjected to sprinkler spray or sheets of water from the roof of an adjacent building. You may consider an enclosure if your area typically experiences a lot of snow fall or you intend to operate the pool year round.
If you do enclose the pool equipment, each piece of equipment will have specific instructions when doing so. These instructions will likely require parameters regarding service and code clearances, ventilation, combustion air and venting requirements depending on the device.
Should I winterize my pool? If you do not intend to use your pool year round, you should winterize it and your builder should build it so that it is conducive to winterizing. A pool that is not winterized will require the pump to run most of the winter, even with a freeze protection device. If the pump stops running, due to a power outage, mechanical failure, etc., the water in the pool equipment and possibly the underground piping will freeze, creating a repair bill that can easily run into the thousands. Also, the costs to operate the pump for 4 or 5 months during the winter will usually pay for a spring opening and a fall closing.
One alternative is a copper ion system, where copper is introduced to the water. Copper is a good algaecide but has no oxidizing properties. Copper pools are very easily overwhelmed by bather load thus the water becomes dull (unhealthy) very quickly. Also, you may experience some copper staining. The water in copper pools tend to have a green tint. We do not recommend this system.
Another alternative is ozone. While ozone is a strong oxidizer, the equipment used is generally inadequate to provide effective sanitation for the water volume. Ozone is generally used to subsidize the duties of some other sanitizer.
There are other methods, such as bromine and biguanides, but chlorine, copper and ozone always seem to come up in conversations.
What about a "salt" pool? A salt pool is a chlorine pool. The difference is that you "make" your own chlorine instead of venturing out to the pool store to buy it. There are basically two methods. One method is to add salt (sodium chloride) to the pool and install a "cell" into the filtration system. When the filtration pump passes water through the cell, an electric charge converts the sodium chloride into sodium hyprochlorite, (essentially bleach) and ultimately forms hypochlorous acid in the pool. The other method uses a brine tank solution at the filtration equipment area, where the chlorine is made and introduced to the pool water.
What should I consider for the operating cost of the pool? There are many factors to consider, but generally sanitizing chemicals and costs associated with heating the pool are usually the greatest expense. These costs can be substantially reduced by the use of a cover when the pool is not in use. Chemical costs can also be reduced by properly maintaining all water balance parameters. Chemical costs are also directly related to the bather load. Other costs, are the electricity required to operate the pump or pumps, and any water necessary to periodically "top up" the pool water level.
What should I consider for the cost of ownership? A lot depends on the pool environment and your tolerance. A huge factor is the pool design itself, the pool builder and your pool design requirements. A well constructed pool and pool area will cost less to maintain and require fewer repairs. A high end award winning pool usually requires more maintenance and repairs than a basic pool. Free form shapes tend to be more cumbersome in terms of covering than rectangular shapes. Just like everything that you own, you must maintain it, secure it, and if necessary, insure it.
Should I enclose my pool equipment (pump & filtering equipment)? Not necessarily, you should check with your pool professional, but most pool equipment is suitable for outdoor installations. Although suitable for outdoor installations, it should not be subjected to sprinkler spray or sheets of water from the roof of an adjacent building. You may consider an enclosure if your area typically experiences a lot of snow fall or you intend to operate the pool year round.
If you do enclose the pool equipment, each piece of equipment will have specific instructions when doing so. These instructions will likely require parameters regarding service and code clearances, ventilation, combustion air and venting requirements depending on the device.
Should I winterize my pool? If you do not intend to use your pool year round, you should winterize it and your builder should build it so that it is conducive to winterizing. A pool that is not winterized will require the pump to run most of the winter, even with a freeze protection device. If the pump stops running, due to a power outage, mechanical failure, etc., the water in the pool equipment and possibly the underground piping will freeze, creating a repair bill that can easily run into the thousands. Also, the costs to operate the pump for 4 or 5 months during the winter will usually pay for a spring opening and a fall closing.
Non diving pool profiles
What are the choices for pool depths? Recent trends are beach (zero entry) entries and sun shelves. Beach entries allow for a "no step" transition from the pool deck into the pool where the slope continues into the pool on an 8% grade or less. Sun shelves are basically an area of the pool where the water depths are 3" to 12" of depth. These configurations are popular with toddlers.
Diving pools are constructed to very specific dimensions depending on the diving equipment you intend to use. With a typical backyard diving pool, about 75% of the pool is "over everyone's head".
"Sports" type pools are very popular. Water depths typically vary from about 3 ft near the steps, to 5-1/2 ft in the middle and then the end opposite the steps is generally 4-1/2 ft deep. A typical sports pool depth profile is shown at the top of the diagrams.
Depth profiles are only limited by your imagination and of course your budget, with the exception of a diving pool, where, again, the pool profile must match the diving equipment.
Step, stair and bench configurations are nearly limitless, but they do require space in the pool.
Diving pools are constructed to very specific dimensions depending on the diving equipment you intend to use. With a typical backyard diving pool, about 75% of the pool is "over everyone's head".
"Sports" type pools are very popular. Water depths typically vary from about 3 ft near the steps, to 5-1/2 ft in the middle and then the end opposite the steps is generally 4-1/2 ft deep. A typical sports pool depth profile is shown at the top of the diagrams.
Depth profiles are only limited by your imagination and of course your budget, with the exception of a diving pool, where, again, the pool profile must match the diving equipment.
Step, stair and bench configurations are nearly limitless, but they do require space in the pool.